Tie & Dye

Tie & Dye Weaving Preparation & Process

The process of tie & dye weaving starts with preparing the wrap and weft from the bleached silk yarn by spinning it. Squatted on the floor, women reel threads from primitive spinning wheels to load bobbins. Giant spinning wheels are employed to prepare the wrap, which forms the length of the fabric. The wrap is fastened between two poles set apart and marked according to the design. For preparing the weft (which forms the width), a fan-shape, spiked wooden frame is used. Strand upon strand of yarn is deftly wound between the spikes and the converging rod at the other end of the frame. The yarn is tied with threads and strips of rubber, in line with the predetermined pattern marked on it. The warp and weft yarns are individually knotted and wrapped tight enough to prevent the dye from penetrating into it when dippped in different colors.This is called double-tie-dye method. The process of tying and dyeing is repeated several times depending on the number of colors required by the design. When the yarn has dried, the wrapping are carefully removed. The yarn, which is to become the length of the fabric to be woven, is strecthed on the loom while the weft yarn is once again transferred to the fan-shaped wooden frame. At this stage one can see the patterns emerging, ready to be woven together. The craft of tie-dyed weaving is known as Chitki in Tlugu.But its popular name, however, is Ikat. The technique involves great skill and prcise calculations by the textile artisans. The design is very colorful, intricate and attractive but at the same time very complicated. It takes nearly 15-20 days to weave a cloth of 20 meters - the maximum length a loom can take. The woven fabric is taken out of the loom and give a starch-police before sending it to the showroom.